In early July, a blaze ignited near Glenmore and Abernethy, scorching more than 33 sq km of moorland and ancient forest. Over 500 firefighters battled the flames, homes were evacuated and peat continued to smoulder beneath the soil for weeks. The emergency lasted a month, yet the vast Cairngorms National Park—spanning 4,528 sq km—kept most of the damage hidden from the main roads. Today, the charred hills stand silent, their blackened silhouettes softened by the season’s gold-tinged bracken and the resilient green of Scots pine.
Against this backdrop, a small crew of cyclists set out to test new bikepacking routes. Guided by Kees Wouters and Yannick Ferbeek of Legendary Rides, alongside Markus Stitz of Bikepacking Scotland, the group arrived in Aviemore aboard an electric Ember bus that allows bicycles on board. Loaded with frame-bag supplies, they left the town’s bus station, pedalling through heather-dotted lanes and under a canopy of birch and rowan.
The fire’s imprint on the landscape
The original line would have taken riders past Glenmore, the turquoise surface of Loch Morlich and the cosy Ryvoan bothy, but path closures forced a detour toward Nethy Bridge. Along the new trail, pine needles cushion each pedal stroke while sunlight filters through untamed birch. At Loch Garten, the summer nesting grounds of ospreys, the contrast between tranquil wildlife and the memory of helicopters overhead is stark. Local volunteer Graham Niven, who helped run the nearby self-catering Arbor Nethy, describes the forest as an “extension of our home”. The ancient Caledonian pine forest – home to trees hundreds of years old – remains fragile, and the community still mourns the loss, even as scar-red peat continues to emit low-level heat.
The three-day bikepacking loop
Day 1 – Aviemore to Nethy Bridge
Leaving Aviemore, the riders follow a soft track of pine needles, crossing the River Avon and skirting the edge of the Abernethy estate. The ascent to Nethy Bridge offers sweeping views of the river valley, and a brief stop at the local café provides a chance to sample the famed local oatcakes. Evening brings a welcome berth at Arbor Nethy, where guests can unwind in a fireplace and hear stories of the wildfire’s lingering hotspots.
Day 2 – Speyside Way to Tomintoul
The second day follows the historic Speyside Way, winding past farms, whisky distilleries and the renowned Glenlivet estate. The route slides from dense forest to open heather-purple hills, eventually arriving in the village of Tomintoul. Here, cyclist-friendly accommodation offers hot curry and cold beer, a perfect reward after a day of steady climbing. The night sky, though often cloud-covered, is occasionally pierced by the soft glow of distant peaks.
Day 3 – Military roads, castles and mountain cabins
Day three turns historic, tracing 18th-century military roads built after the Jacobite risings. The riders pass Corgarff Castle, a white-washed fortress that once housed troops to suppress rebellion and later the illicit whisky trade. The journey continues to Cairngorm Bothies near Ballater, off-grid cabins surrounded by pine, each equipped with a small nature journal documenting sightings of red squirrels and deer. A rainy interlude at Burn O’Vat, a massive glacial pothole in the Muir of Dinnet reserve, offers a dramatic backdrop before the final push over Capel Mounth and into the gentle undulations of Glen Clova.
Community hospitality and tourism recovery
While the wildfire has faded from national headlines, its echo remains in local bookings. Graham Niven notes a subtle dip in photography-workshop reservations at Arbor Nethy, and Polly Cameron of The Dell of Abernethy reports slower October occupancy. The perception that “Abernethy was burnt down” still deters some travelers, even though less than 10 % of the ancient forest was affected. Nonetheless, most businesses have resumed normal operations, and the region’s reliance on tourism means each successful ride helps stitch the economic fabric back together.
Practical advice and support from Legendary Rides
Legendary Rides supplies pre-booked accommodation, downloadable GPX files and a WhatsApp line that answers on-the-fly queries. Their routes are deliberately forgiving; alternate shorter sections are available for riders who face bad weather or fatigue. The company stresses that the journey is as much about soaking in the Cairngorms scenery as it is about reaching the next waypoint, encouraging cyclists to pause for photos, local snacks or a quick repair at the Ballater Bothy café.
