Argomenti trattati
San Lorenzo is a neighborhood in Rome that resonates with the energy of its university students, yet it is steeped in rich history. Located just a stone’s throw away from Termini Station, this vibrant area is a delightful blend of local bars, restaurants, and historic sites. The neighborhood derives its name from the Basilica of San Lorenzo fuori le Mura, a historic landmark that anchors the area. As you explore San Lorenzo, you’ll discover a unique juxtaposition of past and present, making it an intriguing destination for a few hours of exploration.
A glimpse into San Lorenzo’s history
The history of San Lorenzo is relatively recent, framed by the ancient Aurelian Walls. Before the establishment of the Kingdom of Italy in 1861, this area was primarily agricultural. The landscape was barren, punctuated only by the Basilica of San Lorenzo and the Verano Cemetery. The transformation began between 1860 and 1890 with the construction of the San Lorenzo freight yard, along with housing developments that were once public housing but have now evolved into charming balcony-style apartments. It was here that Maria Montessori established the first Casa dei Bambini in the world, marking the neighborhood’s commitment to education.
Throughout its modern history, San Lorenzo has maintained a youthful and predominantly working-class character. In the early 20th century, it became known for its strong social and communist movements, especially during the political strife of the 1920s. The establishment of the University City in the 1930s further cemented its youthful identity. The neighborhood’s resilience was tested during World War II, particularly during the bombing raid on July 19, 1943, which claimed thousands of lives. This tragic event is still commemorated today, ensuring that the memories of those lost are not forgotten.
Starting our journey: Porta Tiburtina
Our exploration begins at Porta Tiburtina, a historic gate that once marked the exit of the Via Tiburtina from the city. Originally constructed in 5 BC under Emperor Augustus, it has undergone several restorations, including work by emperors such as Titus and Caracalla. The dual architectural style of the gate—Roman Republican on the inside and Late Antique on the outside—serves as a powerful symbol of the neighborhood’s rich history and its connection to the past.
Interestingly, the gate is also known as Porta San Lorenzo, linking it to the nearby basilica. This name reflects the Christian heritage that intertwines with the history of the Roman Empire. As you stand before the gate, you can sense the layers of history that have unfolded in this vibrant neighborhood.
Visiting the Basilica di San Lorenzo fuori le Mura
Just a short 15-minute walk from Porta Tiburtina will lead you to the stunning Basilica di San Lorenzo fuori le Mura. This church is not only an architectural marvel but also a significant pilgrimage site, housing the tomb of Saint Lawrence as well as the final resting places of notable figures, including Alcide De Gasperi and several popes.
The basilica’s interior boasts three naves, adorned with remarkable artworks and historical elements. One notable feature is the bronze statue of Saint Lawrence, crafted by Stefano Galletti in 1865, located in the piazza designed by Pope Pius IX. The church has witnessed its share of destruction, particularly during the bombings of 1943, but its restoration has preserved its historical significance and beauty.
Exploring the Verano Cemetery
Just a stone’s throw from the basilica lies the Verano Cemetery, a profound tribute to those who have passed. Established under Napoleon Bonaparte’s Edict of Saint Cloud in 1804, it was designed by architect Giuseppe Valadier. This sprawling cemetery covers 83 hectares and is divided into 21 sections, housing countless monuments and burial sites of notable personalities.
Among the graves, you will find the military shrine of Verano, honoring the remains of nearly 5,000 soldiers, as well as the Egyptian Temple, which serves as a venue for secular funerals. The cemetery is a serene space, allowing for reflection amidst the historical artistry and the stories of those who rest here.
Uncovering ancient Rome: The Sepulchre of Largo Talamo
As we make our way back along Via dei Volsci, a left turn onto Via dei Reti leads us to Via dello Scalo di San Lorenzo, where we encounter the Sepulchre of Largo Talamo. This ancient relic dates back to the 1st century AD and is believed to have belonged to the gens Pomponia. Discovered during excavations in 1935, it now stands as a testament to the area’s ancient Roman roots, captivating passersby with its historical significance.
The vibrant street art of San Lorenzo
Before concluding our journey, take a moment to wander through the backstreets adorned with street art. The neighborhoods of Via dei Campani, Via degli Equi, and Via dei Lucani are vibrant canvases for local artists, showcasing the youthful and artistic spirit that defines San Lorenzo. Here, you can stop at a cozy café, sip a coffee, and soak in the lively atmosphere.
This artistic side of San Lorenzo represents the heartbeat of the neighborhood, where creativity flourishes and invites engagement from both locals and visitors alike.
Parks and tranquility in the city
Exiting onto Via Tiburtina, you will encounter two parks that offer a breath of fresh air amidst the urban landscape. The first is the Parco Caduti del 19 Luglio 1943, a poignant memorial commemorating the victims of the 1943 bombing. Here, you can find a monument designed by architect Luca Zevi, dedicated to those who lost their lives during that tragic event.
A little further along, the Villa Mercede public park provides a peaceful retreat. Although not vast, it is an ideal spot to rest and reflect. The park’s history is intertwined with the De Reinach family, who owned the land in 1913, and the area was later gifted to the local Institute of the Auxiliaries Sisters, ensuring its preservation as a public space.
Today, Villa Mercede is not only a park but also houses the Tullio De Mauro Library, making it a hub of knowledge and relaxation in the bustling neighborhood.