Argomenti trattati
Imagine wandering through narrow streets lined with stunning baroque architecture, where the air is filled with the rich aroma of chocolate. Modica, a jewel in the Val di Noto, captivates visitors with its unique blend of history and culinary delights. Known as the “city of a hundred churches,” this UNESCO World Heritage site is not just a feast for the eyes but a haven for chocolate lovers. Whether you have half a day, a full day, or a weekend, there’s so much to explore in this charming Sicilian town.
Two cathedrals and their stories
Did you know that Modica boasts not one, but two magnificent cathedrals? It’s a rare distinction for a city, and each cathedral tells a story of its own. The absolute highlight is the Cathedral of San Giorgio, a baroque masterpiece that ascends majestically up 250 steps. Its golden façade, towering at 62 meters, is nothing short of breathtaking. Once you step inside, you’ll be transported into a world adorned with five naves, mesmerizing frescoes, and a monumental organ that leaves visitors awestruck.
Equally enchanting is the Cathedral of San Pietro, located in the lower part of the city. Adorned with a staircase flanked by apostolic figures, its richly decorated baroque façade beckons visitors to explore further. Inside, the brightness and elegance complement an impressive collection of 19th-century paintings that make this place a must-visit.
A literary tribute: The home of Salvatore Quasimodo
Modica is not just about beautiful architecture; it is also the birthplace of Nobel Prize-winning poet Salvatore Quasimodo. Tucked away in the town is a small museum dedicated to his life, located in the very house where he was born. Here, you can find treasures like his bed, typewriter, and even recordings of his voice. For poetry lovers, it’s a magical experience that connects the past with the present.
Another hidden gem is the Church of San Nicolò, the oldest in Modica. This magnificent site is a symbol of the Val di Noto and was rediscovered in 1987, revealing Byzantine frescoes from the 11th century. It only takes a few minutes to visit, but its historical significance and beauty make it worth the stop.
The architectural splendor of Modica
The baroque style is not limited to religious buildings; it permeates the entire historic center of Modica. One shining example is Palazzo Polara, situated just a stone’s throw from the Cathedral of San Giorgio. Dating back to the 18th century, it now houses a pinacoteca filled with prestigious artworks and showcases stunning period floors. And if you’re a fan of Italian detective stories, you might recognize it as a filming location for the famous series, “Commissario Montalbano.”
Another architectural wonder is Palazzo Napolino Tommasi Rosso, adorned with theatrical masks and intricate baroque decorations, a testament to the opulence of noble families from a bygone era.
As you ascend through Modica, you’ll find the neoclassical Church of San Giovanni Evangelista, which features a grand staircase leading up to it, and at the very top, the Church of Santa Maria del Gesù, a gothic complex complete with a charming cloister and an original ogival portal decorated with remnants of Arab-Norman art. Interestingly, this building survived the devastating earthquake of 1693.
Art and culture: Museums and archaeological sites
In the heart of the historic center lies the Palazzo della Cultura, an ex-monastery that now hosts the archaeological civic museum. It features notable exhibits, including the Hercules of Cafeo statuette and a collection of artworks once owned by Quasimodo himself. It’s a place where history and artistry intertwine beautifully.
The Castle of the Counts offers a glimpse into Modica’s past, perched on a rocky outcrop for strategic defense. While it’s not fully accessible, visitors can explore remnants of its glorious history, including the polygonal tower and dungeons, which whisper tales of the past. Just a note of caution: the Castle of the Counts in Modica shouldn’t be confused with the one in Alcamo, despite the similar names.
Like much of Sicily, Modica is surrounded by archaeological areas, with Cava Lazzaro being particularly noteworthy. This site features ancient caves used for religious purposes, crafted by hand and steeped in history.
Activities to enjoy in Modica
Beyond its architectural and cultural allure, Modica is renowned for its chocolate production. A visit wouldn’t be complete without stopping at the Chocolate Museum located within the Palazzo della Cultura. Here, you’ll uncover the secrets of cold-processed chocolate, known for its unique grainy texture and aromatic richness. It’s a chocolate experience like no other, standing apart from ordinary commercial offerings. As a sweet surprise, you’ll find a record-breaking 9-meter chocolate sculpture that captures the hearts of both young and old alike. The journey culminates in a workshop where you can witness the chocolate-making process, indulge in tastings, and of course, shop for delectable treats.
As the locals would say, they love to do the “struscio”—a leisurely stroll. Corso Umberto I, the main shopping street, is alive with activity, lined with chocolate shops, boutiques, cafés, and historic buildings. The vibrant atmosphere is even more enchanting at sunset when the baroque architecture is bathed in a warm pink glow.
For those who love breathtaking views, Pizzo Belvedere offers a stunning vantage point over both Modica Alta and Modica Bassa. The rooftops and bell towers create a picturesque landscape that glows beautifully at sunset. While some adventurous souls tackle the steep paths on foot, I recommend driving, especially during the hotter months.
Another photogenic spot is Belvedere San Benedetto, which provides postcard-perfect views directly facing the Cathedral of San Giorgio. The scene is simply magical, making it a favorite among photographers.
Modica is nestled in the southeastern part of Sicily, within the Val di Noto in the Ragusa province. It’s a small historical treasure surrounded by the Iblei mountains, divided into upper and lower areas. The most convenient way to reach it is flying into Comiso Airport, about 40 kilometers away, or Catania Airport, located 120 kilometers from the town. Renting a car makes the journey swift, but there are also bus services and tourist transport options available for those without a vehicle.