We chose to spend a mostly dry day exploring Assisi after the forecast hinted at only a short spell of rain around midday. The town rewarded us at every corner: the consistent pale stonework, narrow lanes and tiny doorways made even the most familiar views feel fresh. I had intended to look for a few off the beaten track shots — a tucked-away stair, a weathered lintel — but in Assisi those moments presented themselves without effort, so I was spoiled for choice. With Betsy feeling under the weather, she travelled strapped to my back in a rucksack and earned as many admiring aaahs as our dog Winnie did that day.
The return to the camp late in the afternoon produced a very different memory. The site was suddenly alive with a cloud of tiny flying insects that seemed to swarm whenever we crossed grass or approached hedges; they even coated the vans. After shrugging off the creepiness we settled down to watch the final episode of Vargo on the iPad. The adaptation stars Martin Freeman as a hapless insurance salesman and, while it borrows elements from the original film, the series has its own tone: gritty, often violent, but strangely compelling. We have several more seasons queued up for the road.
A day in Assisi
The heart of the visit was simply wandering. The town’s unified stone façades and sheltered alleyways create a cohesive visual identity that makes it easy to switch from wide-angle shots of the major monuments to intimate close-ups. I kept finding those small, satisfying scenes I like to photograph — a narrow step leading to a carved door, potted plants tucked into a windowsill — and each discovery felt like finding a new page in a well-worn book. The cathedral and main sights were impressive, of course, but the charm often came from the little details. Carrying Betsy in the rucksack meant we could move quickly and enjoy more of the town without worrying about tired legs or long queues.
Back at the campsite
Unexpected insects
What started as a relaxing late afternoon turned briefly unpleasant when the campsite hosted a plague of tiny flying creatures. They congregated over grassy patches and clung to hedges, making any close approach uncomfortable and leaving every vehicle dusted with them. We kept the dogs away from the worst of it and did a quick clean-up of the van when we could, but the experience was a sharp reminder that countryside stays can bring unpredictable nuisances. Still, the rest of the site’s amenities — space, shade and quiet — remained attractive once we escaped the swarm.
An evening of screen time
To wind down, we watched the last episode of the current Vargo series. The show’s mix of dark humour and violence makes it an oddly satisfying watch while on the road: compact episodes that don’t demand too much attention but offer a clear narrative payoff. Character-driven drama like this provides low-effort entertainment for nights when you want to relax without losing the storytelling thread. We made notes to continue the binge later — four more series await.
Preparing for Sardinia
Practical purchases
The travel leg that followed meant reshuffling our crossing to Sardinia a day earlier, choosing sunshine on the island over grey skies on the mainland. We drove about two and a half hours to a campsite near Livorno, the port for our ferry, stopping en route for a practical shopping run. At Ikea we picked up a cheap voile curtain to serve as a fly screen for the van door, a deeper frying pan, scissors, a circular clothes hanger and extra pegs — small upgrades that make van life more comfortable. A visit to a local pet shop restocked Winnie’s kibble, added a few tins, a muzzle (in case ferry rules require it) and more tennis balls to replace the ones she quickly destroys.
Campsite and early start
The overnight stop sits incongruously in the middle of nowhere yet only a few miles from the motorway. Its lake, open grass and walking space feel generous compared to the tight pitches of some coastal sites, and both dogs enjoyed racing across the fields. Since our sail was early, we only partially set up camp: a lightning-fast hook-up, a quick evening meal and an early night. The plan was simple and efficient: minimise work the next morning and be ready to board the ferry without delay. Small, practical choices like those voile curtains and extra dog supplies make the transition from mainland touring to island time smoother, and we were glad to have them packed and ready for the crossing.
